Originally Posted by sc4405
Originally Posted by traysvega
I've always adjusted them this way.Hot.
pop the distrib cap rotate(bump) motor to no. 1 on cap.Set balancer to TDC 0....Adjust both intake and exhaust for no.1 cylinder
Rotate counter clockwise 90 degrees or 270 on balancer and set both for no. 8
Rotate counter clockwise 90 degrees or 180 on balancer and set both for no.4
Rotate counter clockwise 90 degrees or 90 on balancer and set both for no. 3
Rotate counter clockwise 90 degrees or 0 on balancer and set both for no. 6
Rotate counter clockwise 90 degrees or 270 on balancer and set both for no.5
Rotate counter clockwise 90 degrees or 180 on balancer and set both for no. 7
Rotate counter clockwise 90 degrees or 90 on balancer and set both for no. 2
Rotate counter clockwise 90 degrees or 0 on the balancer and your back to no.1 again... :wink:
Button on firewall. and maybe 10 minutes.
Not sure I would do this on today's cam profiles. You are not necessarily on the lobe base circle when the piston is at TDC. Bet if you went back and checked using the EOIC method the lash would be different. On my 4-7 swap BBC the intake will not be fully on the base circle until the exh. is nearly fully open. 8) JB
I actually this weekend before the going to the track tried this...first my way HOT....Had 2 valves only a very very small amount loose..adjusted...Then second ran it again HOT and did the EOIC method....not one valve was different from my first adjustment.Not sure but my way works.I've done this long ago with the same results on a older cam profile roller with no difference so I continued on this fairly new profile (Crower Ultra action Roller).Not sure but think I'll continue with my FAST and efficient adjustment..Also if cold lash setting was the best way to do it,wouldn't you think ALL the cam Manufactures Cards would read "COLD LASH SETTING"....Instead of HOT ... :roll: make yeah go hmmmmm...