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Old 12-31-2009, 01:35 PM
  #20  
TheYellaBrick
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Originally Posted by DRTRCR22
WOW, thanks Zip and Dennis, lots of good information here, thanks!

Well, I guess I should have done my homework before purchasing this assembly, but I was excited to get it all for less than half what it cost new.
I went back and found my notes, and the seller claims they are Manley rods, but they are not marked so I have no way of proving that. They are scribed by the machinst when balanced, but that is all I noticed. Yes, they are the dowel pinned lower bearings, and they have the serrated seam caps. I did not get the original bearings with this and had to order new ones, so I have no idea what they looked like coming out, but the journals have no unusual wear or color or any other indications of a failure. My notes also clarify that the seller says he only made four (4) 1/8 mile passes with this assembly before deciding it wasn't enough for his Quick 8 car. Does anyone recognise these as Manley rods? The big ends are big enough I had to 'clearance' the block like I do for 383 stroker assemblies.
Well, since I already have the shortblock together, I guess I will either complete this engine as a drag motor and try to sell it, or save it for my 80 Z28 T-top restoration into a street romper. It should be ok for street strip use, huh? Thanks again for the help. Jim

And again an opinion from my brother;

Hi Dwaine,

They do not appear to be any Manley configuration that I've seen, the big end design isn't the Super 70 nor is it the forged version. And not Millers anyway, and there's a thousand different combo's that are and have been produced (for instance Manley has std, nitrous and lightweight versions of their Super 70). Looks like the guy has the right idea about selling it as a drag engine. The piston dome appears to have been making contact with the chamber wall, he may want to look at this for whatever combo he's building. Using them for a street application can be done, just don't expect anything regarding long life (regard the engine as a disposable unit), and clearance the block and chamber for .070 to .090" clearance in all directions!

Dave's mention that aluminum rods sometimes are not any lighter is exactly true. The alloy rods can be much lighter at the reciprocating end, but slightly heavier at the big end, also everybody has mentioned the shock absorbing qualities, which is the primary reason why which I chose these parts when building a high RPM engine (blown alky or nitro too). Another thing comes to mind, the crank should have the bob wiehgt stamped or scribed into the front counterwieght or it may be a job number instead
-just a thought.


Have a good new years! Bro Dennis
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