496 Heads
 

I am putting a spare motor together and need a set of heads
Parts are as followed
496CI
Stock 4 bolt block
Eagle crank & rods with upgraded bolts
Weisco 14:1 pistons
Comp Cam 775/725 284/292 in @ 108
454R intake
Rons Terminator Injection

What heads would you use ? Keep budget in mind here I hope to never use it being a back up.



Anyone ever used these ?
http://www.racingjunk.com/post/83881...ASSEMBLED.html

Those sound like some happy flow numbers but for a motor you don't plan on running it doesn't seem like a bad deal.

George

I'd have to agree here with George,
But my theory is you pay for what you get.I think it would be a great investment for something you would hope not to run :P

Things I have learned in the racing business,in the last 30 years,trying to save a buck here and there has cost me over double some times.

So with that said,I'd buy a good product once and not end up putting a bunch more money into some thing you'd only have to upgrade alot of the parts that they us to assemble some of these "good deals"

Buy american products and keep america working.Maybe after all the american shops shut down,you can go work and race in china :P

IMHO I wouldn't use those heads. They are known for being poor craftsmanship AND a dealer of those heads said that those flow numbers are VERY inflated. For less money buy a pair of Summit(Made by Dart) iron heads, with a little port work they flow really well. Here is an article using them,http://images.popularhotrodding.com/...+flow_test.jpg. Good luck

Re: 496 Heads
 

David,
I have a Nice Very Few Run set of Brodix BB-X's Ad #976892.Same old Deal they were Sold!Only PROBLEM,the MONEY Never made it here???
I would let you have these for the Original Price.I'm Not that far from you,and if your Interested we could Meet in the Middle somwhere and you could Look Them Over?
THANKS
Greg 8)

The CnC work looks like junk to me but worse then that is those head
castings that are made in China are JUNK !!!!!!!!!!!!

They will be good for a spare motor to hold the manifold in place, ..
just swap on some good heads before you actually START the engine, ..

It's getting really old, I keep posting that these things crack, .. studs
pull out, .. and I've seen the seats fall out and on a new set here
the seats weren't even in all the way, ..

Junk is junk simple, . if it's too cheap to be true, .. it's junk, ..

Buy an iron Dart and you'll be miles ahead of the game with a head that will
run much better and not crack, ..

Curtis

Curtis you crack me up LMAO,

First of all i'm a procomp dealer, and the add is an outright lie. Direct Motion in Ca. does the CNC porting of these heads for procomp. They are in fact 320 cc runner heads as cast and the most flow that DM has been able to get is 373 cfm. ProComp does not make a 360cc runner head. the spring pressuse will not allow you to run a solid roller cam.
Hammer save your money, unless you think you have to have these heads i'll sell them to you cheaper, but the warrenty is invalid right after you open the shipping box.

Zip.

Zip,

can you tell, as a cylinder head guy, .. I'm getting really tired of talking
about these junk heads, . .

buy based on price, .. you get what you pay for, .. ..

it's like the laws of physics, .. it can't be changed, .. good stuff costs money, ..
junk it cheap, .. what part of this is hard to understand?

Ok Zip, .. now get up off the floor and stop laughing. :lol:

Curtis

Hey Curtis, i'm done :lol:


You have any solid s/blk heads 23* for my blown s/blk, if not what would you recommend 383" 1471 littlefied stripped 30 PSI, with buzzard catcher.
2 1/4" zoomies.

Thanks in advance,

Zip.

Zip,

I tend to use Dart castings for blown stuff, .. for a small block they make
a 220 casting in their race series with spread exhaust ports.
Gotta use the spread exhaust and run water between the the center
two ports, ..

I'd have to ask if they make a solid version of it, .

Curtis

Curtis I am just wondering if you think it would be a good idea to make a sticky that titles ( Good head list ) and list the heads that in your opinion are worth the money and the heads that don't make the list are not worthy of any commits. I can understand your commit (I'm getting really tired of talking about these junk heads, . . ). If the guy's are going to listen to your advice they could start by the heads named on the list that you see fit of worthy of a commit. It's just a thought that may help out. I for one like what you have to say about your head work and will use you the next set I buy.

Wes,

that's a nice idea, .. but then we would have a sticky that nobody
bothered to read either. Ok , I'm joking, .. I'll stop now.

Just to be clear, .. yes I'm serious that it's getting old talking about
these junk heads, .. but my last posts where very tongue in cheek, ..
I was trying to be a little funny, .. find some humor in the situation.

I offer my experience and advice based on close to 30 years of building
heads, engineering degrees and racing experience, .. and if it helps some
person that's great. Cause all I really want to do is help.

If they don't want to use my advice, that's OK too, .. there's more
then one way to skin a cat, .. I'm not always the one with the proper knife.

A list like you talk about would be miles long, .. cause every combination has
it's best cylinder head, .. simple fact is outside of Dart, Brodix, Trick Flow,
Edelbrock ( for some things ) All Pro and AFR, .. . there's not many others I use.
Not counting the factory stuff like SB2.2, DRCE, Yates etc of course.

But the truth is, .. you use what it takes to properly do the job.
I just can't see risking $1,000's worth of engine, pistons, cam etc
by putting a crappy head on an engine just to save a little money.

That's really poor economics, .. to put cheap heads on an engine and
risk the costs of all the other parts to save a few bucks.

spend the money up front and buy the right parts that will give good
service for years, .. it's long term economics, .. it will save money in
the long run. Cheap parts cost more money in the long run because
of a shortened service life, .. and if they break, .

curtis

OK brother I got your drift. Well keep'em flowing.

Thx's gotta use spred ports for the larger zoomies also, i was running 2 3/8" on blown gas 40 yrs. ago with 1" thk. adaptor plates. But things have changed a lot in time, and now you can bolt on big pipes. I'm aways away for getting the blower motor back up and running and i've stole the brodix's off it for another engine, so i have to replace them.

Zip.

Are those the china heads distributed by the aussies or are they the new zeland heads?
The aussie heads have real fit problems with most intake manifolds. Read a couple articles on them, I'll try and find em.