I ran a best of 12.38 with a 9to1 355 with 470 lift cam a $1800 long block, but thats with a 4500 vert and 4.86 gears, right at 3200lbs

If your planning a small block build and planning to go with a forged crank, it really doesn't cost that much more to stroke it out to a 3.75'' stroke and end up with a 383. In my opinion well worth the extra money and labor.

I've actually have considered a 383, but don't really know much about that kind of build.

the machine shop will take care of the bottom end for ya.well the maching anyway. the rest is the same as anyother build.ive got a 383 in my 53 ranchwagon, and it is FAST.ive shut down a few on the street with this heavy car. suprise, suprise, suprise.!!! i love it. if you arent sure on how to build one just get ya a book read a little and spend alot! lol

383 is a 350 bored 30 over with a 3.75 stroke yeah just tell the shop u want it machine to be made into a 383 and they will get ya going its the same as building any other engine just different parts and go with a 6.0 rod it reduces outward pressure on the cylinder wall making it more efficient
-logan

s10
 

Laxking,
You can run 12.25's with a 350 at .060 over, stock stroke in a 3000# S10, powerglide, 4.56 rears, that's what mine runs in cool weather. Most of the time I run 1/8mile at 7.75's at 88-90mph. And it has the stock s10 rear end with traction bars. I race at 350' above sea level, that helps a lot. It wouldn't surprise me if my rear end fell out on the next run, but I've been running this same combo for about 4 years with no problem. It also has mid 70's smog motor heads, but it has a good cam, intake, and all the other parts. I went with smog motor heads because they are cheap, and I had them, and comp ratio worked out to be 10-1 so I could use pump gas 93 octane. Hope this helps you some. dgh

Thanks everyone for the replies, giving me a few things to think about doing. As far as going 383, I've seen Summit has bottem end packages from Scat and Eagle, are these a good way to go, or what should I be looking for as for parts to build the 383?

the rotating assembly are a good start or you can do it like this

FORGED 3.750 stroke crank for a 350 a good block bored .30 over and notched for clearance, forged 6.0 rod, some high dome pistons, aluminum heads (everyone i talk to THAT RUNS PROCOMP says procopm is good for the money) and a good cam to fit the build. thats how i would do it
JMO id go with forged crank and rods if you can afford them just for extra insurance but the scat 9000 crank is a good cast crank from what i hear
-logan

watch what company crank you buy very close. scat is a import blank crank.meaning they import the blanks and turn them. meaning softer steel or iron.

ive herd the scat 9000 cranks run at 7000 rpms and take 550 hp without a problem
J.M.O
-logan